Cha-An (a review)

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Cha-An is one of the rare gems in New York, and should remain that way (so don't all of you mob the place). Over the past few years, it has transformed from a quiet tea-house in the east village to a bustling mecca for "Yelper's" and tea aficionados alike. Has it lost its quiet charm because of this? Perhaps, but it won't stop me from coming - well except maybe at night when the line of waiting patrons extends all the way down the narrow staircase leading into the restaurant. However, I must state that Cha-An is a true antithesis to the American culture of food and consumption. Those who are expecting big flavor, particularly flavor over substance, should not go here. You will only set yourself up for disappointment. It is also not a place to go for speedy service in between meetings or projects or for the large portions that American belt lines are acclimated to. Rather, the service at Cha-An is slow but reasonable. Any faster and it would seem out of place in the bamboo and wood establishment. The portioning is on the lighter side as to leave you satisfied with the experience but not satiated. The flavors are subtle and harmonious so as to not fight and overcome the flavor of your tea.

The menu for Cha-An is fairly small with some light lunch options (which come with tea), a number of desserts (including a chef's choice special), and 3 different tea sets. You can also order sake or just a pot of tea if you aren't in the mood for solid sustenance. Cha-An also has a tea room which is available for reservation for tea ceremony. Tea is taken quite seriously at Cha-An. All tea is served in the proper containers, whether it be Yixing clay (for puers and gongfu style teas), iron tetsubins (for some green teas), or god-awful beautiful filio teapots from mono* (i suggest you check the link. These teapots are not your run-of-the-mill restaurant-ware). The tea selection is small but varied and all of better quality leaves than you will find in most tea rooms in New York. The tea is brewed well and from what I have heard, the water is specially treated to proper mineral content. The tea is a little pricey at times though it is almost always worth it.

The three tea sets are the real highlight of Cha-An's menu. Of the the three sets, Set B is usually the crowd favorite. Note that we have ordered two Set Bs below.



In addition to this, you are given a starter of soy-based quiche which was light, creamy and delicious and a smaller dessert of the chef's choice (which is pictured below). I particularly enjoyed the kabocha and string bean nimono (yeah, yeah, I know that it's really easy to make). The tea-smoked salmon and the shrimp were a good balance to the pumpkin. Perhaps the only downside to the meal (to be nitpicky) was the heaviness of the cream of mushroom soup. I wanted it to be a little lighter because it seemed a bit out of place. Set A, consists of a 15 grain rice porridge and a small set of flavorings (People should not be confused by the descriptions; these small flavorings are not dishes). I found it to be greatly inferior to the balance provided by Set B and thus I don't often order it - although those looking for yummy porridge should not hesitate to order. The afternoon tea set, which is only available before 7pm, is one of the best in the city. For around 20 dollars, you get tea, 2 small bagel sandwiches (one a salmon and cream cheese sandwich and the other a preserve and butter sandwich), 2 scones and an assortment of cookies (all of which are made on-site). Despite some of the negative things above, I would recommend all three sets to any Cha-An patron ... just maybe Set B above the others.



The desserts at Cha-An are the big draw for those not really interested in quality tea. They have a variety of desserts available with interesting flavors you will not find in many establishments. Two of my favorites are the black-sesame creme brulee (above) and the jasmine mousse (not pictured). Those looking for thick sauces and flowing rivulets of dark chocolate should be warned that the desserts tend to be more subtle than sinful. Furthermore, the dessert menu in particular changes every so often and you may find yourself unable to order a dessert you have enjoyed in a previous visit. This may occur with the tea as well as with some of the other offerings. Another critique I have of Cha-An is the cash-only policy. It isn't a big deal, just very annoying. The staff is mostly if not all of Japanese descent which adds to the charm and authenticity of the establishment. Don't let that worry you though, they will not have any problem taking your order although those of you who do speak Japanese will likely have an easier time making more complicated requests.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Cha-An is one of the city's best tea rooms without a doubt. The menu consists of mostly authentic Japanese dishes and numerous tasty desserts. Of these, the three tea sets offer the most value for your money with Set B perhaps offering the most desirable variety of Cha-An's culinary offerings. The desserts, though are subtler than your average fare, are delicious though are often rotated so you may find that a favorite is unavailable. That, the possibility of a busy night, and the cash only decree are slight annoyances but not enough to really detract from the charm and zen of the entire experience. Those expecting big flavor, large portions, and speedy service should steer clear of this establishment as you will be in for a large dissappointment. Finally, those with an appettite for soy chai lattes or vanilla-almond-cherry rooibos monstrosities should leave their expectations in a Starbucks cup before entering. 4.49 stars (rounded down of course).



link to yelp. We seem to agree on this one but not for exactly the same reasons. Please do not go here just for the bathroom ... it really cheapens the place and shows poor taste.

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* I am in love with this teapot ... purely from a design perspective of course.